Brugge Brasserie
1011a East Westfield Blvd. (Underneath Netheads)
Indianapolis, IN
I’ve never been to Belgium, but I do have a cookbook that alleges everyone there eats well. If the food at Brugge Brasserie is anything to go by, I have no difficulty believing it. The space is a bit small, and got crowded quickly on a Thursday night; I can’t imagine how they’d fit a Saturday-night crowd in. However, the tables are generously sized, and the decor is comfortable and warm with the contemporary, offbeat look we all expect in Broad Ripple restauants and brewpubs (Brugge is both, but I’m not qualified to review beer, so you’ll have to do your own research.)
Housemate and I started off with a small order of frites, and while McDonald’s may be right next door, the fries are a world apart. There was barely any grease and minimal salt, just a crisp, gorgeous exterior dotted with herbs and a light, soft interior. They taste like—gasp—real potatoes. Fresh mayonnaise is traditional, but there are plenty of choices, from homemade ketchup (nothing like Heinz 57 and much the better for it) and two kinds of aioli to hot curry and pesto. I think that frites (and fries, for that matter) are like sushi, in that it’s better to go someplace good than make it yourself, because even if you have the tools and skills make it at home, somehow it’s never quite the same. This is the place to go.
Housemate ordered the moules frites, which is two pounds of large mussels with a side of frites and a chunk of fresh, lightly toasted French bread. Again, there are many choices for the broth in which they’re cooked—European classics include beurre blanc and Provencal (butter, shallots & garlic, chardonnay, and herbes de Provence) and global fusion options red curry and citron (lime/jalepeno/cilantro/onion). In my mind, two pounds is a truly enormous serving, so if you prefer to eat light, bring a like-minded friend. The mussels were perfectly done—by which I mean they had a texture and it wasn’t rubbery—and I don’t recall seeing any unopened ones.
My entree was the grilled chicken crepe with Roquefort, endive, spinach, and garlic aioli. Unfolded, the crepe would have been larger than the plate, and was solid but not heavy. There was a generous, but not excessive portion of filling, with plenty of vegetables and chicken that tasted like chicken, rather than industrial protein. The chef had a light hand with strong flavors, including the Roquefort and aioli, so that all the various flavors of the dish were balanced. With it, I had a glass of the Moselland Riesling, which was fruity without being overly sweet.
The menu also offers mitraillettes (sub-style sandwiches), soups, and salads, with a decent selection of vegetarian (but not vegan) crepes and sandwiches. The dessert menu is entirely sweet crepes, and I wavered between the Nutella and the crepes Suzette with mascarpone. In the end, I simply didn’t have room for either, but I have intent to go back…many, many times.